Shih Tzu Mother Giving Birth

Shih Tzu Puppies Being Born

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Mother and Puppies are healthy and thriving! Welcome to the world little ones. We wanted to share information about how to whelp Shih Tzu puppies. This breed has that beautiful flat face and we have so many years of experience. Years of loving what we do, and we want to share the beauty of this experience with not just breeders for “How To” but with all our Zulas Shih Tzu families and clients. Thank you for watcing

The Complete Guide to Whelping Shih Tzu Puppies

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Everything you need to know — from pre-breeding preparation through the first eight weeks of life.

Why Shih Tzu Whelping Deserves Special Attention

Shih Tzu are a brachycephalic (flat-faced) toy breed, and that distinction matters enormously when it comes to whelping. Their compact bodies, broad skulls, and narrow birth canals make them one of the breeds most likely to require veterinary intervention — including cesarean sections — during delivery. Whether you are a first-time breeder or adding Shih Tzu to an experienced program, understanding the unique demands of this breed is non-negotiable.

This guide walks you through every phase of the whelping process: preparation, pregnancy, labor and delivery, postpartum care, and neonatal puppy management — followed by a thorough FAQ section covering the questions breeders ask most.

Part 1: Pre-Breeding Preparation

Health Testing & Veterinary Clearance

Before any breeding takes place, both the sire and dam should receive:

• Complete veterinary wellness exam — including cardiac evaluation, patellar luxation screening, and eye certification (CERF/OFA).
• Brucellosis testing — a bacterial infection that causes infertility and spontaneous abortion. Test both dogs within 30 days of breeding.
• Genetic screening — Shih Tzu are predisposed to renal dysplasia, liver shunt, and certain eye disorders. DNA panel testing helps identify carriers.
• Up-to-date vaccinations and parasite control — the dam should be current on all vaccines before breeding, not during pregnancy. Deworming with a fenbendazole protocol (typically starting at day 40 of gestation) is standard.

Age & Weight Considerations

• The dam should be at least 2 years old and no older than 5–6 years for a first litter.
• Ideal breeding weight for a Shih Tzu female is 9–14 lbs. Females under 7 lbs carry significantly higher whelping risk and should not be bred.
• Males and females should be reasonably matched in size to reduce the likelihood of oversized puppies.

Building Your Whelping Kit

Assemble your supplies well before the due date. You will need:

Part 2: The Pregnancy Timeline

Shih Tzu gestation lasts approximately 63 days from ovulation (58–68 day range from breeding date). Here’s what to expect week by week:

Weeks 1–3 (Days 1–21): Fertilization & Implantation

• Embryos travel to the uterus and implant around days 18–20.
• No outward changes in the dam. Continue normal feeding and exercise.
• Avoid medications, chemicals, and live vaccines.

Week 4 (Days 22–28): Early Development

• A veterinarian can sometimes palpate developing embryos around day 25–28.
• The dam may experience mild morning sickness (decreased appetite, occasional vomiting).
• Begin transitioning to a high-quality puppy food or performance diet to meet increasing caloric needs.

Week 5 (Days 29–35): Organogenesis

• Puppies’ organs are forming; this is a critical window — avoid all unnecessary medications.
• The dam’s abdomen may begin to show slight enlargement.
• Ultrasound can confirm pregnancy and estimate litter size (though not always accurate for exact count in Shih Tzu).

Week 6 (Days 36–42): Rapid Growth

• Puppies begin to grow rapidly; the dam’s belly is noticeably larger.
• Increase food by 25–50%, split into 3–4 smaller meals to accommodate her shrinking stomach space.
• Begin the fenbendazole deworming protocol (typically 50 mg/kg daily from day 40 through day 14 postpartum).

Week 7 (Days 43–49): Preparation

• X-ray is possible after day 45 to count fetal skulls and spines — this gives the most accurate puppy count and identifies potential size issues.
• The dam’s mammary glands begin to enlarge and may start producing colostrum.
• Set up the whelping box in a quiet, warm, low-traffic area so the dam can acclimate.

Weeks 8–9 (Days 50–63+): Final Countdown

• The dam may become restless, nest, or seek isolation.
• Begin twice-daily temperature monitoring starting around day 56. Normal temperature is 100–102°F (37.8–38.9°C).
• A temperature drop below 99°F (37.2°C) signals labor will likely begin within 12–24 hours.
• Reduce exercise to short, gentle walks. The dam should not be left alone for extended periods.

Part 3: Labor & Delivery

Stage 1: Pre-Labor (6–24 hours)

Signs to watch for:

• Temperature drop below 99°F
• Restlessness, panting, pacing, nesting behavior
• Refusal of food
• Visible shivering or trembling
• Possible vomiting
• Vulvar discharge (clear to slightly green mucus)

Your role: Keep the environment calm, quiet, and warm (ambient room temperature of 75–80°F). Do not hover, but remain nearby. Ensure fresh water is available.

Stage 2: Active Labor & Delivery

This is when contractions become visible and puppies are delivered.

What normal delivery looks like:

1. The dam will strain visibly — abdominal contractions are unmistakable.
2. A fluid-filled sac (water bag) may appear at the vulva. Do not rupture it.
3. A puppy should be delivered within 30 minutes of active, hard straining.
4. Puppies can present head-first (60%) or breech/tail-first (40%) — both are normal.
5. The dam should break the sac, chew the cord, and begin licking the puppy vigorously.

When to intervene:

• If the dam does not break the sac within 30–60 seconds — tear it open yourself, starting at the face. Clear the mouth and nose with a bulb syringe.
• If the puppy is not breathing — rub firmly with a warm towel in a downward (head-low) motion. Suction fluids from the airway. Gentle chest compressions with two fingers may stimulate breathing.
• If the cord is still attached — clamp with hemostats about 1–1.5 inches from the puppy’s belly, tie with dental floss, and cut on the placenta side. Dab the stump with iodine.

Timing between puppies:

• Puppies are typically delivered 15 minutes to 2 hours apart.
• The dam may rest between puppies — this is normal.
• She should continue nursing and cleaning the already-born puppies between deliveries.

Stage 3: Placenta Delivery

• Each puppy has an associated placenta. It may deliver immediately after the puppy or with the next puppy.
• Count every placenta. A retained placenta can cause life-threatening infection (metritis).
• The dam may eat some placentas — this is natural behavior. Allowing 1–2 is fine, but too many can cause vomiting and diarrhea.

The C-Section Reality

Signs a c-section may be needed:

• Prolonged unproductive labor
• Fetal distress (visible on monitoring)
• Dam’s exhaustion or declining vital signs
• X-ray showing an oversized puppy or abnormal positioning
• Primary uterine inertia (no contractions despite being at term)

Part 4: Postpartum Care for the Dam

The First 24 Hours

• Ensure the dam passes all placentas. A foul-smelling or heavy discharge warrants an immediate vet visit.
• Offer small, frequent meals of high-quality puppy food mixed with warm water or broth.
• Fresh water should be available at all times — milk production increases fluid demand dramatically.
• Monitor her temperature: a brief rise to 102–103°F can be normal, but sustained fever above 103.5°F indicates possible infection.

Ongoing Postpartum Monitoring

Watch for these complications:

Nutrition During Lactation

• A nursing Shih Tzu dam may need 2–3 times her normal caloric intake.
• Feed a high-quality puppy food or performance formula, offered free-choice or in 4–5 meals daily.
• Supplement with puppy milk replacer mixed into food if she is nursing a large litter and losing condition.
• Continue the fenbendazole deworming protocol through day 14 postpartum.

Part 5: Neonatal Puppy Care (Weeks 1–8)

Week 1: The Critical Period

Newborn Shih Tzu puppies are extremely fragile. They are born blind, deaf, and entirely dependent on the dam for warmth and nutrition.

Temperature Management

• Newborns cannot regulate their body temperature. The whelping box should be 85–90°F for the first week.
• Use a heating pad (under half the box, never directly on puppies) or a Snuggle Safe disc.
• Gradually reduce to 80°F by week 2, 75°F by week 3, and 72°F by week 4.

Daily Weight Monitoring

• Weigh every puppy at the same time each day using a gram scale.
• Healthy neonates should gain 5–10% of their birth weight daily.
• A puppy that loses weight two days in a row or fails to gain is in trouble — begin supplemental feeding immediately.
• Average Shih Tzu birth weight: 4–7 oz (110–200 grams)

Feeding

• Puppies should nurse within 1–2 hours of birth to receive colostrum (rich in maternal antibodies).
• Healthy puppies nurse every 1–2 hours in the first week.
• If a puppy is weak, too small, or pushed away by siblings, tube feeding or bottle feeding with puppy milk replacer is necessary.

Cord & Dewclaw Care

• Check cord stumps daily — they should dry and fall off within 2–3 days. Watch for redness, swelling, or discharge (signs of infection).
• Dewclaw removal (if desired) is typically done by a vet at 3–5 days old — though many Shih Tzu breeders opt to leave them.

Week 2: Eyes & Ears Begin Opening

• Eyes typically open between days 10–14. They will appear blue-gray initially.
• Ears begin to open around day 13–17.
• Continue daily weights and supplemental feeding if needed.
• Trim puppy nails for the first time — tiny nails can scratch the dam’s mammary tissue.

Week 3: Awakening

• Puppies begin to stand, wobble, and take their first steps.
• Teeth may begin erupting late in week 3.
• Puppies start responding to sound and light.
• Introduce gentle handling and early neurological stimulation (ENS) exercises if following a Bio Sensor protocol.

Week 4: Weaning Begins

• Introduce a gruel mixture: puppy milk replacer blended with high-quality canned puppy food or softened kibble.
• Offer the gruel on a flat dish — expect a mess. Puppies learn by walking through it and licking their paws.
• The dam will naturally begin spending more time away from the litter.
• First deworming dose (typically pyrantel pamoate) at 2 weeks, repeated at 4, 6, and 8 weeks.

Weeks 5–6: Socialization & Independence

• Puppies are eating solid food mixed with milk replacer, transitioning toward dry or canned puppy food.
• Critical socialization window — expose puppies to:
  • Different surfaces (tile, carpet, grass, blankets)
  • Household sounds (TV, vacuum, music, doorbell)
  • Gentle handling by multiple people (men, women, children if supervised)
  • Novel objects and mild challenges
• Begin basic litter box or potty pad training — puppies naturally move away from their sleeping area to eliminate.

Weeks 7–8: Pre-Placement Preparation

• Puppies should be fully weaned and eating kibble softened with warm water.
• First vaccination (typically a combination DHPP) is given at 6–8 weeks.
• Veterinary wellness exam for each puppy — check for hernias, heart murmurs, patellar luxation, cleft palate, and general health.
• Microchipping can be done as early as 8 weeks.
• Do not release Shih Tzu puppies to new homes before 8 weeks of age — many responsible breeders wait until 10–12 weeks to ensure adequate socialization, bite inhibition, and health stability.

Part 6: Record Keeping

Meticulous records protect you, your puppies, and your buyers. Maintain documentation for:

• Breeding dates and method (natural or AI)
• Progesterone testing results and predicted due date
• Prenatal vet visits, ultrasound, and x-ray results (with puppy count)
• Whelping log: time of each birth, presentation, weight, placenta delivery, any intervention
• Daily puppy weights for the first 4 weeks minimum
• Deworming schedule with product, dose, and dates
• Vaccination records
• Veterinary exam findings for each puppy
• Puppy identification (collar colors, microchip numbers)

Frequently Asked Questions

Breeding & Pregnancy

Q: How many puppies do Shih Tzu typically have? A: The average Shih Tzu litter is 3–5 puppies, though litters of 1–6 are common. First-time mothers and older dams tend to have smaller litters. X-ray after day 45 gives the most reliable count.

Q: Can Shih Tzu deliver naturally, or do they always need a c-section? A: Many Shih Tzu can and do deliver naturally. However, the breed has a significantly higher c-section rate (estimated 20–40%) compared to most breeds due to the puppies’ large, round heads relative to the dam’s pelvis. Always be financially and logistically prepared for an emergency c-section.

Q: How do I know if my Shih Tzu is pregnant? A: Early signs (weeks 3–4) include decreased appetite, mild vomiting, and slightly enlarged nipples. An ultrasound at day 25–30 can confirm pregnancy. Abdominal enlargement becomes noticeable around weeks 5–6. X-ray after day 45 provides definitive confirmation and puppy count.

Q: What should I feed my pregnant Shih Tzu? A: Transition to a high-quality puppy food or all-life-stages food starting around week 4. Increase portions by 25–50% in the last trimester, and feed 3–4 small meals daily as her stomach space decreases. Avoid calcium supplementation during pregnancy unless directed by your vet.

Q: Is it safe to breed a Shih Tzu on her first heat? A: No. Shih Tzu should not be bred until they are at least 2 years old, have completed health testing, and have reached physical and mental maturity. Breeding on the first heat (which can occur as early as 6–8 months) carries significant health risks.

Labor & Delivery

Q: How long does Shih Tzu labor typically last? A: Stage 1 (pre-labor) can last 6–24 hours. Active delivery of the entire litter typically takes 3–12 hours, depending on litter size. Any single puppy should be delivered within 30 minutes of hard, active straining.

Q: What does a normal Shih Tzu labor look like? A: The dam will pant, pace, nest, and may refuse food. When active contractions begin, you will see visible abdominal pressing. A water bag may appear first, followed by a puppy within minutes to 30 minutes. Between puppies, the dam may rest, nurse, and clean existing puppies.

Q: My Shih Tzu has been straining for over 30 minutes with no puppy. What should I do? A: Contact your veterinarian immediately. Prolonged unproductive straining is the most common sign of dystocia (obstructed labor) and may indicate a puppy is stuck, too large, or malpresented. Delaying intervention can be fatal to both the dam and remaining puppies.

Q: Is a breech (tail-first) delivery dangerous? A: Not necessarily. Approximately 40% of puppy deliveries are breech and proceed without complication. However, if a breech puppy becomes stuck at the shoulders or the delivery is prolonged, veterinary intervention may be needed.

Q: What color should the discharge be during labor? A: Clear to slightly greenish mucus before delivery is normal. A dark green or black discharge before the first puppy is a warning sign of placental separation and warrants an immediate vet call. After the first puppy, green discharge between puppies is normal (it comes from the placental sites).

Q: Should I let the mother eat the placentas? A: Allowing the dam to eat 1–2 placentas is fine — it is instinctive behavior and the hormones may help stimulate milk production and maternal instincts. However, eating too many frequently causes vomiting and diarrhea. Remove excess placentas after counting.

Newborn Puppy Care

Q: How much should a newborn Shih Tzu puppy weigh? A: Average birth weight is 4–7 oz (110–200 grams). Puppies under 3.5 oz (100 grams) are at higher risk and may need supplemental feeding and closer monitoring.

Q: How often should newborn Shih Tzu puppies eat? A: Newborns nurse every 1–2 hours around the clock for the first week, gradually spacing to every 2–3 hours by week 2. If supplementing with a bottle, follow the same schedule.

Q: When do Shih Tzu puppies open their eyes? A: Eyes typically begin opening between days 10–14. They may open unevenly (one eye before the other). Never force the eyes open. Full vision develops over the following 2–3 weeks.

Q: My puppy isn’t gaining weight. What should I do? A: A puppy that fails to gain weight for more than 24 hours or loses weight needs immediate attention. First, ensure it is warm (a cold puppy cannot digest food). Check that it is latching and nursing effectively. Begin supplemental feeding with puppy milk replacer via bottle or tube. If the puppy continues to decline, see your vet — there may be an underlying congenital issue.

Q: What is “fading puppy syndrome”? A: Fading puppy syndrome is a catch-all term for neonatal death in the first 2 weeks of life. It can be caused by congenital defects, infection, hypothermia, hypoglycemia, inadequate milk intake, or maternal rejection. Warning signs include persistent crying, failure to nurse, cold extremities, isolation from the litter, and progressive weakness. Aggressive supportive care (warmth, sugar supplementation, tube feeding) and veterinary attention give the best chance of survival, but mortality rates remain high.

Q: How warm should the whelping box be? A: 85–90°F (29–32°C) for the first week, reducing to 80°F by week 2, 75°F by week 3, and room temperature (~72°F) by week 4. Always heat only half the box so puppies (and the dam) can move to a cooler side if too warm.

Q: When should puppies start eating solid food? A: Begin offering a gruel (puppy food blended with milk replacer) at 3.5–4 weeks of age. Most Shih Tzu puppies are eating softened kibble comfortably by 5–6 weeks and are fully weaned by 7–8 weeks.

Health & Veterinary

Q: When do Shih Tzu puppies get their first shots? A: The first DHPP (distemper, hepatitis, parainfluenza, parvovirus) combination vaccine is typically given at 6–8 weeks of age, with boosters every 3–4 weeks until 16 weeks old. Your vet will provide a specific schedule.

Q: When should I deworm the puppies? A: Standard protocol is pyrantel pamoate at 2, 4, 6, and 8 weeks of age. The dam should be on fenbendazole from day 40 of pregnancy through 2 weeks postpartum to reduce roundworm transmission to puppies.

Q: What are the most common health problems in newborn Shih Tzu? A: The most frequently encountered issues include:

• Cleft palate — milk comes from the nose; puppies cannot nurse effectively. Often fatal without surgical intervention.
• Hypoglycemia — low blood sugar, especially in very small puppies. Treat with Karo syrup on the gums.
• Umbilical hernias — common and usually minor; most resolve or can be repaired at spay/neuter.
• Respiratory distress — due to the brachycephalic anatomy; ensure airways are thoroughly suctioned at birth.
• Congenital liver shunt — may not present until 8–12 weeks; watch for poor growth, vomiting, or neurological signs.

Q: What is eclampsia and how do I prevent it? A: Eclampsia (milk fever) is dangerously low blood calcium caused by the demands of milk production. It is most common 1–3 weeks postpartum in small breeds nursing large litters. Symptoms include restlessness, stiff gait, muscle tremors, panting, and seizures. It is a life-threatening emergency requiring IV calcium from a vet. Prevention includes feeding a high-quality diet during lactation and supplementing with oral calcium after delivery (not during pregnancy, which can suppress the dam’s natural calcium regulation).

Q: When should Shih Tzu puppies go to their new homes? A: The absolute minimum is 8 weeks, but many responsible Shih Tzu breeders wait until 10–12 weeks. This extra time allows for crucial socialization with littermates (learning bite inhibition and canine communication), additional health monitoring, and better overall adjustment to new environments. Puppies released too early are statistically more likely to develop behavioral problems.

Practical Breeder Questions

Q: Do I need to take time off work for whelping? A: Yes, plan for it. You should be present for the entire delivery and available around the clock for the first 7–10 days minimum. Newborn Shih Tzu puppies require monitoring every 2–3 hours (including overnight) for adequate nursing, temperature regulation, and early detection of problems.

Q: How much does it cost to whelp a Shih Tzu litter? A: Costs vary widely by region, but a rough breakdown includes:

• Pre-breeding health testing: $300–$800
• Prenatal care (ultrasound, x-ray, vet visits): $200–$500
• Whelping supplies: $150–$400
• Emergency c-section: $1,500–$5,000+
• Postpartum vet care: $100–$300
• Puppy vaccinations, dewormings, and vet exams: $100–$200 per puppy
• Total estimated range: $1,500–$7,000+ per litter (higher with complications)

Q: Should I have an experienced mentor for my first litter? A: Absolutely. An experienced Shih Tzu breeder mentor is invaluable. They can guide you through timing decisions, talk you through labor in real-time (even by phone), and help you recognize when something is going wrong. Many breed clubs offer mentorship programs.

Q: What if the mother rejects a puppy? A: First, check the rejected puppy for health issues — mothers sometimes reject sick or weak puppies instinctively. If the puppy is healthy, try reintroducing it while the dam is calm and supervised. If rejection persists, you will need to hand-raise the puppy: feed every 2 hours with puppy milk replacer, stimulate elimination after each feeding (warm damp cotton ball on the genital area), and keep the puppy warm with littermates or a Snuggle Safe disc.

Q: Can I use a human baby scale to weigh puppies? A: A kitchen scale that measures in grams is more precise and better suited for the small weights involved. Newborn Shih Tzu are light enough that a standard postal or kitchen scale (accurate to 1 gram) will detect the daily weight changes that matter — changes that a baby scale calibrated in half-ounce increments might miss.

Final Thoughts

Whelping Shih Tzu puppies is simultaneously one of the most rewarding and most demanding experiences in dog breeding. The breed’s charm and devoted temperament make the work worthwhile, but never underestimate the preparation, vigilance, and financial commitment required.

The three most important things you can do:

1. Build a relationship with a reproductive veterinarian who knows your dog and your program.
2. Be prepared for the c-section you hope you won’t need.
3. Monitor, measure, and record everything — data saves puppy lives.

Healthy puppies placed in loving homes with a smooth start to life — that’s the goal. Everything in this guide serves that purpose.

This article is intended for educational purposes and does not replace the advice of a licensed veterinarian. Always consult your vet for decisions regarding breeding, pregnancy, and neonatal care.